Route development is a commitment of your time, energy, finances and artistic expression. When high standards are used and maintained, you’ll end up with routes and crags you can be proud to share with the rest of the climbing community for decades to come. The standards and guidelines stated herein are intended to promote the relative safety and enjoyment of your fellow climbers. These standards and guidelines are subject to change by ARCC.

STANDARDS

• All bolts, hangers, quick links and chains shall be stainless steel, shall be from a reputable manufacturer, and shall be at least comparable in strength to those of other bolts, hangers and chains currently in use by responsible climbers. No mixed metals.

• All bolts must be a minimum of 3/8” in diameter and 3” long. Mechanical or glue-in bolts that are 1/2” in diameter and at least 3” long may be more appropriate in sections with softer rock. Installation shall follow manufacturer’s instructions.

• Fixed top anchors should consist of at least two anchor bolts. Each anchor bolt should be separated by at least 5 inches, but no more than 12 inches.

• Top anchors should have a minimum of two moving pieces to avoid rope twists while lowering. Acceptable examples include double rings, a quicklink and a ring, double quicklinks, a quicklink and a mussy hook or steel carabiner. A quicklink and a carabiner works well in private areas but tends to get removed in public areas unless it is otherwise secured.

• The use of reflective hardware is discouraged, especially in areas where conflict with other user groups is most likely to occur such as near multi-use trails, developed sites or viewpoints. Camouflaging fixed anchors to match natural rock color is encouraged.

• To protect sensitive cliff-top and cliff-edge plants and vegetation, topping out new routes is discouraged. All new routes should have a fixed anchor for descent below the top of the cliff to ensure minimal impact to vegetation and facilitate safe climber descent. If using trees as natural anchors for new route development, care should be taken to prevent damage to the tree.

• Excessive cleaning of heavily vegetated cliffs is discouraged.

• Cold shuts are prohibited.

• Chipping, gluing, or attaching artificial holds is prohibited.

• The removal of rock from its natural position for development will be allowed only when the rock to be removed poses a significant risk to the climbing party or future climbing party.

• Permanently fixed software (e.g. rope, webbing, slings, cord, etc.) is prohibited.

• The placement of fixed rope for the purpose of retreating from a climb, working a new project, or establishing a new route may be allowed under the following conditions: (1) the climbing party intends to return to continue the climb, and (2) the placement does not exceed seven days.

GUIDELINES

• Route development involves specialized skills, experience, and tools and should only be undertaken by those who are qualified with ample prior experience to use sound judgment.

• Developers need to not only safely equip their routes, but are also responsible for the initial cleaning and brushing of the route as well.

• Before establishing a new route, developers should consider the quality of the climbing, including the quality of the moves, rock and the route’s position; route density on a section of cliff, and the extent to which the route is independent of other routes; the ability of a lead climber competent in the grade to lead the route in relative safety; the extent to which the route follows a good line and is not contrived; and whether the route may offer future climbers a quality traditional climb or sport climb. Make a great route future climbers will enjoy!

• Developers should carefully consider whether a route can be safely climbed using traditional gear and whether the placement of bolts (other than top anchors) is necessary.

• Replacement of old, unsafe, fixed anchors or hardware is permitted, in accordance with the standards above and prior acknowledgement and approval of ARCC Bolting Committee. 

• Removal of the old bolt and reuse of the old hole (aka Hole-for-Hole) and patching over old bolt holes is encouraged whenever possible.

• It is the responsibility of the developer to make alterations to the bolt placements of his or her route if the community deems it necessary for safety or improved climbability. If the developer refuses to do so, the ARCC (or their agents) reserves the right to remove, alter, or relocate sub-standard installations.

• Perma-draws may be appropriate in steep, overhanging terrain and in circumstances where it is necessary to manage risk in the process of climbing and cleaning one’s own gear off a route.

• Route names should be chosen with careful consideration and respect for our diverse community of climbers. Please review the ARCC equitable access statement. Route names that are deemed discriminatory or hurtful will not be tolerated.